Borgo Food & Wine brings nostalgic Italian cooking, warm hospitality and a polished date-night feel to Ascot Vale
Sitting quietly on Ascot Vale’s Union Road, Borgo Food & Wine’s understated façade gives little away. Step inside, though, and the mood shifts. Dark wood details, wine bottles lining the overhead ledges, and dimmed lights create a date-night vibe that feels intimate without trying too hard.
Soon after being seated, there’s a chance you’ll be greeted by one or both of the Italian-born owner-operators, Christian Giorgini and Danilo Vezzoso. Their gregarious energy sets the tone for your journey through the menu of “childhood memories on the plate”.
Put your trust in the team for a chef’s tasting (or graze on favourites à la carte). Warm focaccia hit the table with an airy interior and that moreish crust of flaky salt. Then, the Vitello Tonnato, with melty sliced veal topped with tuna emulsion, all but disappeared on the tongue, finished with a zing from crispy capers and caper dust. Ordering more focaccia to mop up every last swipe of sauce isn’t optional. The Insalata di Pulpo was another standout. Tender octopus rested atop a mound of verdant potato smash infused with chive, garlic and parsley oil. Crumbles of dehydrated Kalamata olives paired with pops of celery, pickled red onion, and the distinct minerality of a glass of Roero Arneis from Piedmont.
Two pastas followed. Choosing a favourite? Near impossible. The Pacchero al Pomodoro was bathed in a silky, umami-driven tomato sauce that proved just how extraordinary simplicity can be. Stracciatella and a drizzle of basil oil floated on top, though the silkiness of that perfect pomodoro stole the show. In stark contrast, but with its own nostalgia and reverence, the Agnolotti del Plin presented beef-filled pillows, crimped at their folds and bathed in a glossy, deeply savoury beef jus. Rich, yes. But you’ll find yourself going back for ‘one last bite’ time and again in between sips of a lightly spiced Nebbiolo di Alba.
Though by this stage our eyes were bigger than our appetites, the main course made its entrance, ready to be shared. Guancia di Manzo, a red wine-braised beef cheek, fork-tender and paired alongside melty, caramelised leek and sautéed spinach. Stacked high in a bowl, crispy fennel- and rosemary-studded potatoes served as the vessel that sopped up the last of the braising jus.
While you might think about skipping dessert, don’t consider it an option when Borgo’s layered tiramisu is on offer. It’s the airy zabaglione, whipped for 20 minutes, that makes each mascarpone mouthful all the more luxurious, piqued by a hit of bittersweet cacao. An Italian-style short black makes a stellar finale to the meal, but saying ‘yes’ to a Limoncello is an even better bet.
Borgo’s cooking is reason enough to make the trip, but it’s the generosity of its hospitality that stays with you. In a dining landscape increasingly chasing the next big thing, something is refreshing about a restaurant content to do the fundamentals exceptionally well.
Melbourne Insider Score 4.5/5
