La Madonna offers a five-course Wagyu menu, taking diners from tongue and carpaccio to butter-dry-aged cube roll and crème brûlée, each paired with selected wines.
A five-course menu built entirely around Wagyu could easily feel too heavy, but La Madonna gives every course its own cut, texture and flavour.
Executive Chef Jacopo Degli Esposti takes the concept beyond five variations of steak. Tongue, carpaccio, tortellini, cube roll and even crème brûlée each reveal a different side of the beef.
The setting suits the menu. La Madonna has a moody, polished atmosphere shaped by stone, dark timber, leather banquettes and the warm glow of its gold chain chandelier. It feels intimate and cosy without becoming overly formal, which matters when settling in for five courses and a full wine pairing.
Service was excellent from start to finish. The team was warm, attentive and confident, while the pacing gave us enough time to enjoy each wine with its dish. Nothing felt rushed.
Wagyu, five ways
The meal began with Westholme Wagyu tongue and jus à manger. The tongue was tender and intensely savoury, while the jus brought concentrated depth that made this small opening course feel much bigger in flavour.
Heidsieck & Co Monopole Blue Top Brut accompanied the dish. Smooth was my first impression, but there was more happening underneath: peach and nectarine, a little toast and pastry, followed by a lively saline lift that kept the pairing balanced. It was an easy introduction to the evening.
Next came the Westholme MB5 hanger steak carpaccio with bone marrow and classic dressing. The beef was sliced thinly enough to display its marbling, while the marrow added another layer of richness. The dressing gave the plate the lift it needed to keep each mouthful balanced.
The Copperhead Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023 was deeper than I expected from a Pinot Noir. Ripe cherry, cranberry and raspberry sat over a silky texture, while savoury undertones, delicate spice, fine tannins and bright acidity gave it shape. It complemented the carpaccio without overpowering the beef.
For me, the tortellini of Westholme tenderloin in double Wagyu consommé was one of the strongest dishes of the night. The pasta was delicate, but the broth had serious intensity: clear and refined in appearance, yet deeply beefy once tasted.
Its match was the Palladino Barbera d’Alba Superiore Bricco delle Olive 2020, and it was amazing. Black cherry and nutmeg came through first, followed by a full, harmonious palate with enough freshness to cut through the consommé. The food made the wine more interesting, while the wine drew even more flavour from the dish.
Then came the centrepiece: Westholme MB6 cube roll, butter-dry-aged for 45 days and served with Wagyu jus. The ageing concentrated the flavour into something deep and almost nutty, while the marbling kept the beef tender and yielding. The jus did not distract from the steak; it reinforced what was already there.
Château Cru Godard 2022 had enough structure to stand beside the dish without overwhelming it. This Merlot-led Bordeaux blend was velvety, with redcurrant and cooked strawberry notes, and its balance worked particularly well against the richness of the cube roll.
The final course could easily have felt like a novelty. It did not. The Wagyu tallow crème brûlée remained recognisably true to the classic dessert, with a brittle caramelised top and smooth custard underneath. The tallow introduced a restrained savoury note rather than an obvious beef flavour.
A Clare Valley Liqueur Muscat completed the pairing with concentrated dried fruit and caramel sweetness. It was rich, but against the burnt sugar and faint savoury edge of the crème brûlée, it made complete sense.
What impressed me most was the variety. Every course tasted distinct, the wines felt chosen for the food rather than added as an afterthought, and the service held the experience together. The Palladino pairing, tortellini and cube roll were particular standouts, although there was not a weak plate across the menu.
Melbourne Insider Score: 4.5/5
La Madonna location and dining details
Address: Level 3, Next Hotel Melbourne, 103 Little Collins Street, Melbourne VIC 3000
Menu availability: From 5.30pm, Tuesday to Saturday, until 31st October 2026
Price: $220 per person
Wine pairing: An additional $110 per person
Reservations: Bookings must be made at least 48 hours in advance
Book online: La Madonna
