Mill Place Merchants pairs classic cocktails, sharing plates and live jazz inside a hidden heritage-listed Melbourne bar
Mill Place Merchants is hidden away in Mill Place, inside a heritage-listed building that dates back to the 1840s. It is the kind of entrance you could easily walk past, but once inside, the noise and pace of the CBD feel much further away.
The bar is dimly lit, with exposed brick and stone walls, candlelight and old furniture giving the room a warm, relaxed feel. Jazz played in the background throughout the evening, loud enough to add to the atmosphere without making it difficult to talk.
It was busy when we visited, but it never felt rushed. We had time to sit back, look through the menu and enjoy the drinks without feeling like the table was needed for the next booking. That slower pace suited the room and made the evening feel much more relaxed.
We started with the mulled wine, which ended up being my favourite drink of the night. You could smell the spices as soon as it arrived, and the flavour was just as good. It was warming, rich and full of spice, without being loaded with sugar. On a cold Melbourne evening, it was a very good place to start.
The Old Fashioned was smooth and easy to drink. The bourbon came through clearly, and it was made without adding too much sweetness or trying to overcomplicate a classic drink.
I also tried the Boulevardier, made with bourbon, sweet vermouth and Campari. This was richer and more bitter than the Old Fashioned, and definitely a drink to take your time with. I enjoyed the stronger flavour, although the Old Fashioned was the easier of the two to drink.
We ordered three dishes to share, starting with the Blackmore Wagyu meatballs. These were the standouts for me. They came with green peppercorn cognac cream, pickled celeriac and bread. The sauce was rich and peppery, and the bread quickly became useful for clearing up what was left on the plate.
The truffle goat’s cheese came with Peninsula orange blossom honey and fruit bread. It was a sweeter dish than the meatballs, with the honey working well alongside the goat’s cheese. It was simple, easy to share and a good match with the cocktails.
The porcini and truffle arancini were served with cacio e pepe emulsion and muscatel and date relish. The flavours were deeper and earthier, with a hint of sweetness from the relish. It was the most complex of the three dishes, although I still found myself going back to the meatballs.
Service was friendly, and the pace remained relaxed throughout the night. My only small note was around the drink recommendations. When I asked for a whisky-based suggestion, the waiter pointed me towards the whisky drinks on the menu rather than asking what flavours I normally enjoy.
It was not a major issue, but a quick question about whether I liked something sweet, bitter, smoky or stronger would have made the advice more useful. In a cocktail bar, that small bit of conversation can help, particularly when the menu has plenty to choose from.
Aside from that, the evening was exactly what I hoped it would be. The jazz, low lighting and historic setting gave the bar plenty of character, while the food and drinks made it more than somewhere to stop for a quick cocktail.
The mulled wine and Wagyu meatballs were the highlights for me. I would happily return for both, particularly on another cold Melbourne evening when a warm drink, good food and a quiet corner sound like a very good idea.
Melbourne Insider Score: 4.5/5
